11 Авг 2015

Вступление.

С пересечением границы Греции и Македонии, я как будто пересекла какую-то границу внутри себя. И Македония завоевала мое сердце. Я до сих пор не могу объяснить себе ощущение безграничного счастья, которое я испытала от этой страны, и которое появилось сразу после перехода границы. Ещё дома, планируя поездку, я чувствовала, что с этой страной меня связывает что-то особенное. Но что именно, я не могу понять до сих пор, уже вернувшись домой. Македония стала красивейшей и яркой жемчужиной моего путешествия, хоть я и провела здесь всего 5 дней. В какие-то моменты эмоции зашкаливали настолько, что по силе напоминали объяснение в любви любимому человеку, когда Вы ничего не ожидаете в ответ, а он отвечает Вам взаимностью, и в солнечном сплетении взрывается ураган. Македония ответила мне взаимностью. И пусть не все у нас с ней было гладко, мне было по-настоящему хорошо в этой стране.

P1150433

День 11. 22 апреля. Здравствуй, Македония! Здравствуй, Преспа!

(Флорина - Битола - оз.преспа - нац.парк Галичица, 79,5км, 5:15чхв, 890м. набора высоты)

Утром опять не могла выгнать себя из отеля. Но граница резко улучшила моё настроение. Пограничники были очень вежливы и дружелюбны. А сразу за границей началась другая жизнь. Вроде всё то же, а жизнь другая. Я не знаю, какая генетическая память меня сюда тянула, но как-то очень тепло все отзывается внутри, хотя люди тут и немного более угрюмы нежели в Греции – как и русские. От радости, что я в Македонии, села завтракать в 10:30, не доехав до Битолы, и отлично плотно поела жареной фолелью (пастрмкой) с картошкой. Наконец-то работающие ресторанчики и магазины, низкие цены и никакой Пасхи).

P1150375  P1150381

В Битолу въехала и проехала насквозь. Город симпатичный. Из примечательного здесь, как и по всей Македонии, соседство православных храмов и мусульманских мечетей и минаретов. В остальном город как город – школы, торговые центры, базарчики.

Выезжая из города, выскочила на новую трассу на Охрид, загруженную машинами. Газелист знаками показал мне, что велосипедисту по ней ездить не нужно, хотя она и не платная. Свернула к заправке, но заправщик наоборот сказал, что это хорошая трасса, а «вон та внизу старая – ооочень плохая». Но ехать среди плотного трафика – это ужас, и через 500 метров я нашла съезд на мою «ооочень плохую», которая, разумеется, была просто прекрасна для велосипеда – узкая и абсолютно пустынная. Ничего заправщик не понимает в хороших дорогах для велосуществ!

P1150382  P1150390

Вскоре моя дорожка стала полтора метра в ширину, и асфальт сменился брусчаткой почти на 15 километров, так и переехав через перевал. Сложно даже представить, сколько труда когда-то было вложено в такое мощение дороги. Позже в Сербии такие мощеные дороги встречались даже полноценной ширины и с нанесенной разметкой. Асфальт за годы слазит, а мостовая остается.

На перевале встретила француза Жозефа, который путешествует на велосипеде с февраля. Поболтали за жизнь, пока собачка из рядом стоящей церквушки пыталась тырить его печеньки. Едет он из Албании этой самой загруженной машинами трассой (которая тут на перевале пересекается с моей брусчаткой), об озере Преспа, куда я собираюсь, даже не слышал, озеро Охрид видел только сбоку проездом, в общем все как всегда. Ни разу я ещё не встретила длительных путешественников (от 3 месяцев), кто бы ездил действительно интересными дорожками, а не мотал километражи по трассам. Зато он мне сказал, что в одиночных путешествиях первые 7-10 дней всегда самые тяжелые. Значит я не одна такая! Рассказала ему про узкую отличную дорожку, и отправилась ей дальше на спуск с перевала, выруливать к своему озеру Преспа.

P1150400  P1150419

Тут я должна дать лирическое отступление. Озеро Преспа находится на территории национального парка Галичица. По парку идет красивейшая дорожка через перевал 1600м к дальней оконечности озера Охрид. Дорога эта не хозяйственного назначения, закрытая зимой, но проезжая летом. И именно надежда на то, что эта дорога открыта и проезжая, делала логичным заезд на озеро Преспа. Но после невзятия намного более основательного перевала, хоть и более высокого, в Греции из-за снегов, и зная, что уже на 1450м начинаются в горах сугробы, надежда эта была не слишком большой. В эту весну все Балканы пострадали от обширных снегопадов и заморозков, поэтому в горах снег сходил очень поздно и долго. Но поразмыслив, и находясь в хорошем физическом состоянии, я все-таки решила, что раз запланировала – надо рисковать. Ну не проеду, значит вернусь. Ну не буду успевать укладываться в график (а я уже отстала от него на пол ходового дня), буду искать варианты проброски. Всё в жизни решаемо, главное не отступать раньше времени.

P1150414  P1150417

И я поехала. И озеро меня потрясло! Господи, какое же оно красивое! Окруженное по периметру заснеженными горами, с бирюзовой водой, которая от ветра, туч и солнца, постоянно меняет цвет. На озере живет множество озерных птиц, то и дело перелетающих стайками с места на место. Дух захватывало от таких пейзажей. Даже если перевал не пропустит – оно того стоило!

P1150463  P1150421

Так как я на территории заповедника, дикой ночевкой вставать не хотела принципиально. Ещё дома на снимках в гугле видела подобие кемпинга. И я его нашла. Действительно кемпинг, очень приличный, с рестораном и интернетом. По совместительству это кордон инспекторов заповедника.

P1150450  P1150468

Здесь я и встала с палаткой за 5 евро, и за очень смешные деньги поужинала в ресторане, первый раз с вином! И, наконец, почувствовала, что день удался, и я определенно люблю Македонию. Пью отличное красное вино, праздную новую страну, и фиг с ним с графиком!

prespa  P1150469

Весь вечер гуляю по берегу, фотографирую, и не могу насмотреться. Где-то на том берегу шел дождь, но на наш берег так и не пришел.

Женщина-инспектор с красивым именем Лильяна сказала, что перевал для машин не проезжий, но на велосипеде я кромочкой смогу. Снега ещё много, но не критично. И это действительно хорошие новости! Поеду проверять…

День 12. 23 апреля. Ох, Охрид!

(оз.Преспа - нац.парк Галичица - оз.Охрид - Охрид - Струга, 70км, 5:12чхв, 1125м. набора высоты)

Вечером местный щеночек пытался залезть ночевать в палатку вместе со мной, пришлось уговаривать. Плакал, сопротивлялся, но смирился.

Всю ночь пели (нет, все-таки орали) ) озерные птицы, но спать это мне особо не помешало, хотя старались они очень!

Я поднялась раньше всех постояльцев и уже в 7:15 выехала по дороге вдоль озера в сторону Албании. Затем дорога раздвоилась. Прямая пошла к Албанским деревням, а направо узенькая дорожка на мой перевал, покрытая плохоньким асфальтиком, местами очень разбитым, но с, на удивление, плавными подъемами. По крайней мере, по сравнению с греческими дорогами.

P1150506  P1150512

Ближе к верху стало появляться довольно много снега на склонах, но дорога со всех сторон хорошо освещалась солнцем и была чистой. А пейзажи вокруг открывались просто восхитительные. За моей спиной серебрилось в солнце озеро Преспа, никак не даваясь фотографироваться из-за контрового света. А впереди уже вырастали совсем другие горы…

Вершина напоминала горный перевал, а не автомобильный – выше только небо! Немного не доезжая высшей точки, снежник первый раз перегородил мне дорогу. На тот момент мне даже подумалось, что это единственный снежник, который мне встретится на пути. Но это было не так.

P1150531  P1150529

Виды с перевала были даже более потрясающими, чем вчерашние виды озера Преспа. Пожалуй, это один из самый красивейших перевалов в моей жизни. Синей жемчужиной внизу лежало озеро Охрид, окаймленное белоснежными горами под синим-синим небом. Виды, как с самолета. Внизу вдоль берега были видны маленькие македонские деревеньки, к которым вели петельками серпантинные витки дороги. А на другом берегу Албания.
И ни машин, ни людей, только горы, небо, дорога, и я под небом. Греция подарила мне много красоты, но Македония её переиграла. Сердце собиралось выпрыгнуть от возбуждения и никак не получалось его утихомирить. Так я, счастливая от взятия перевала и улыбающаяся, включила камеру, повесила её на висок и начала аккуратно спускаться вниз.

P1150550  P1150555

И тут и появился снег. На теневом склоне дорога довольно сильно была забита снегом, и только по самой кромке было видно, что проковыривался инспекторский узкий тарантас и снег был немного подкопан и подтаял на солнышке, образовав узкую полоску асфальта. По ней я и поехала, надеясь преодолеть эти участки, не слезая с велосипеда.

P1150554  P1150561

Но на асфальтовой кромке оказался лед. И в самом неудачном месте, где отсутствовало ограждение и слева дорога уходила крутым лесистым отвесом вниз, велосипед поскользнулся на оба колеса, и я грохнулась. Слава Богу, упала на сторону снега, а не на сторону обрыва, но очень больно. И кстати, со включенной камерой. Долго не могла подняться. Всё осталось целым, только довольно сильно разбила правое колено (мало ему досталось в начале похода) и заработала гематому на полбедра, которая проходила до конца похода, и немного саданула правый локоть. Кстати, несколько дней назад в Греции упав на ровном месте на гравии при попытке передвинуть велосипед, разбила себе левый локоть. Теперь я вся стала боевой).

P1150565  P1150571

Но к теперь к моему возбуждению от счастья добавилась ещё и изрядная доза адреналина в крови. Хорошо, что всё обошлось хорошо, но надо быть внимательнее, потому как искать в этой македонской тьмутаракани меня особо-то и некому, дороги-то нет.

Спуск был длинный и очень серпантинистый. Часто останавливаюсь, чтобы перевести дыхание, нафотографироваться, и хоть немного успокоить эмоции. Я всё-таки сделала это. И первый заснеженный авантюрный перевал моего путешествия меня принял и пропустил.

P1150574  P1150575

После серпантинов дорога пошла вдоль озера, делая небольшие подъемы, которые мои ноги наотрез отказывались заезжать, то ли с голода, то ли от затяжного спуска, то ли из-за обилия адреналина и синяков. Но инфраструктуры долго не было, и покушать полноценно нигде не удавалось.

Наконец началась оформленная набережная с цивилизацией, и я засела обедать, не дотянув до города Охрид. И без того отличная жизнь окончательно наладилась.

ohrid  P1150589
Единственное, что я остро почувствовала теперь, - мне нужен какой-то день эмоционального отдыха, чтоб никаких красот, унылые пейзажи, пошарпаные стены, всё что угодно. Но как-то надо успокаиваться. Мне трудно объяснить это состояние тем, кто его не испытывал. Для меня самой это было впервые. И может от того, что именно в этот момент я, наконец, ощутила, что все мои планы, вся подготовка, переживания, вся детальная проработка маршрута, - всё сработало на результат, и что бы ни было со мной дальше, поход уже удался. Может всё это и вызвало такую сильную переполненность, когда из солнечного сплетения вырывается фонтан, и ты понимаешь, что эмоционально горишь, но перекрыть этот краник не в состоянии.

И… город Охрид я проехала насквозь, не остановившись и не сделав ни одной фотографии! Жалею ли я? Да. Но не смогла. А город, конечно же, заслуживает особого внимания, старые храмы и монастыри, места, где вершилась история государств и православной церкви.

Я заехала в Охрид в обеденное время, когда все кафешки были забиты праздными европейскими туристами. Я смотрела на них, они смотрели на меня, и в их глазах для меня ничего не было, ни озер, ни заснеженных перевалов, ни 12 дней в одиночку по горам в чужих краях. И казалось, что весь город был на другой волне, не на моей. И как и неделю назад в Метеорах, я остро почувствовала, что не хочу идти в храм смотреть, я хочу идти туда молиться… И та вершина в 1600 метров, оставшаяся у меня за спиной, и была сегодня моим храмом. И я уехала…

P1150583  P1150596

Выбравшись на второстепенную дорогу до Струги, идущую по самой кромке воды, уже через 10км я подъезжала в городу. Кемпинг, увы, оказался закрыт, и это меня очень расстроило, в город ехать совсем не хотелось. В итоге, недалеко от кемпинга нашла строящийся частный отельчик, где удалось очень хорошо сторговаться. Живу одна на весь дом. Зато, как и вчера в кемпинге, мне тем не менее сделали здесь регистрацию – цивилизация!

Отмывшись и приведя себя в порядок, отправляюсь кушать в недорогой и очень опрятный рыбный ресторан на плавучей платформе на берегу. На озере плавают лебеди, в горах разливается розовый закат, волны мерно бьются о палубу. Пусть завтра будет спокойный день без потрясений, загадала я…наивная. Как говориться, хотите насмешить Бога…

День 13. 24 апреля. Привет, медвед)

(Струга - Дебар - нац.парк Маврово - Маврово, 107,5км, 7:08чхв, 1483м. набора высоты)

Так как за предыдущие дни я отстала на полдня от графика, то сегодня у меня день, когда появился шанс этот самый график нагнать, проехав довольно нетривиальный километраж.

P1150597  P1150605

Утро было очень пасмурным. Выехала как всегда в 7:15. Первые 10 километров от Струги были довольно загруженными машинами. Но трафик больше встречный, люди едут из деревни в город на работу. Дальше машин стало сильно меньше, а дорога пошла вдоль Глобочского водохранилища. И всё бы ничего, красиво, если б не видеть берега, заваленные мусором. (Ну я же просила вчера пошарпанные стены, стен в небесной канцелярии не нашлось – прислали мусор)) Затем огромная дамба и новое водохранилище – Дебарское. Виды вокруг потрясающие, глинястые и песчаные островки, утопающие в зелени деревни, поющие песни пастухи на холмах, заснеженные горы национального парка Маврово на горизонте, но горы мусора вдоль дороги и в воде просто выбивают из колеи. В какой-то момент я так взбесилась от того, что чтобы сделать красивый снимок, мне надо пробираться на самую вершину мусорной горы, чтоб она не попала в кадр, что просто не стала фотографировать – ну нельзя так с природой. Нельзя и точка.

P1150613  P1150631

В Дебар приехала около 12:15 под начинающимся дождем и засела кушать и отдыхать. Но дождь больше пугал. И сбрызнув дорогу вскоре прекратился.

P1150617  P1150621
От Дебара первые 5км были загружены тяжелой техникой и очень разбиты. Похоже, что здесь начинают строить третью плотину на реке Радика. Вскоре я доехала до ворот национального парка Маврово, и трафик практически исчез, хоть и не полностью.

По Маврово я тоже планировала ехать одной очень заповедной дорожкой, но там был перевал около 2000метров и шансы, что дорога чистая, равнялись нулю, в чем я позже и убедилась в самом поселке Маврово, глядя на спускающийся с горы кусок этой дороги забитый высоченными сугробами. А потому я еду основной дорогой, пересекающей национальный парк с юга на север. Нужно сказать, в нац.парке количество мусора резко поуменьшилось, и это радует.
Дорога очень живописная, постоянно идет вдоль бурной речки по узкому ущелью. Трижды на дорогу падают водопады, множество ручейков. И не смотря на то, что идет дорога постоянно против течения реки, то есть вверх, - едется очень резво. Только последние 10-12 километров до водохранилища Маврово набор высоты становится ощутимым.

P1150647  P1150648

Тут и случилось «главное» событие Македонии.

С медведями у меня любовь давняя и взаимная, рассказывать в рамках этого отчета слишком долго. Но тут же Европа! – думала я. Какие нафиг медведи! Их на Алтае то так просто не встретишь. Однако смотря перед походом «Жизнь как чудо» Кустурицы, напряглась от предположения, что они тут все-таки есть. И вчитавшись в источники выяснила, что по всей территории Балканского полуострова в нац.парках встречаются медведи – и в Дурмиторе, и в Гревене, и в Маврово. Вы, наверное, помните знаки «осторожно, медведи» в греческой Гревене. И зная большую, необъяснимую, искреннюю любовь этих животных ко мне, я, конечно, предполагала, что гипотетически могу с ними встретится. Но все-таки я же не тропами хожу, а по дорогам езжу. Но так и случилось. И случилось именно в том месте, где я этого меньше всего ждала.

Река всё делилась и делилась на притоки, и дорога уходила каждый раз вдоль одного из таких притоков. И в какой-то момент дорога оказалась зажата в очень узкое ущелье не более 25 метров шириной. С левой стороны скала, затем несколько метров речка, и узкое полотно дороги, справа от которого почти отвесный лесистый склон. Какой уж тут медведь, тут даже хомячку норку вырыть негде.

P1150650  P1150653

Я постояла, пофотографировала ущелье, отдохнула перед подъемом, а мишка похоже стоял на лесистом склоне немного впереди меня, терпел и ждал, когда ж я уже перестану мешаться. И только я тронулась с места, он не вытерпел и перебежал мне дорогу максимум в 30 метрах впереди меня. Небольшой мишка года полтора, перелез заборчик ограждения дороги и ушел к речке, видать пошел пить. Почему он был без мамки (хотя может мамка и была, но она осталась в лесу на склоне), а может заблудился, а может просто пришел поздороваться, я не знаю. Но и тут небесная канцелярия пожелание исполнила)

Но я конечно опешила). Дошутилась, блин. Очень хотелось подойти к ограждению и сфотографировать его внизу. Но опыт подсказывал мне, что зверя надо уважать, и лучше сматываться побыстрее, что я и сделала, если можно назвать сматыванием езду в горку на передаче 1:4. Следом прошел грузовик, и я подумала, что он отпугнет мишку и его маму, если та ждет в лесочке, и выходить за мной на дорогу он не станет.

Так и проехала 2км не останавливаясь, и только потом у питьевого источника, рядом с машинами и людьми остановилась и перевела дыхание. «Фонтанчик» в районе солнечного сплетения снова начал фонтанировать эмоциями. «Мне ж с моей медвежьей репутаций никто не поверит», подумала я, и даже хотела позвонить маме, чтоб хоть с кем-то поделиться эмоциями из «фонтанчика». Но здравый смысл взял верх, - мама ж может и МЧС прислать). А вечером, когда я все-таки разговаривала из гостиницы с мамой по скайпу и рассказывала про мишку, мама задала единственный вопрос: Света, а он (медведь) на тебя посмотрел? ))). Мама, почему тебя это интересует? ))) Впрочем, она уже ко всему привыкла…

P1150661  P1150666

Разговорилась с местными у источника. Они мой русский понимают не очень, но чуть-чуть понимают английский. Я им про мишку, а они мне: да хрен с ним с мишкой, как ты умудрилась одна путешествовать-то? Да ещё и из Греции! Это же так опасно! В общем как-то я их впечатлила больше, чем мишка, а если быть точнее, то они меня просто не особо поняли), зато пожелали доброго пути и быть осторожной. А я немного перевела дух, и поехала по пустынной дороге дальше. Теперь я вздрагивала от каждого шороха ящерок в прошлогодней листве.

Последние километры до Маврово шли среди сугробов. А ведь здесь всего 1200м высоты. Склоны тенистые и заросшие лесом. Само водохранилище хоть и не было покрыто льдом, но выглядело очень сурово. Выехав к водохранилищу, я не нашла главного: деревню с горнолыжкой, где мне жить. Ночевать в палатке, как вы понимаете, мне не хотелось по двум причинам – сугробы и мохнатые друзья. Зато недалеко от дамбы я нашла тур.информацию, где парень объяснил мне, что нужно переехать на другой конец озера через дамбу и там через 5км я найду деревню, выспросила у него цены и самую дешевую гостиницу и отправилась. Деревня ещё совсем в снегу. В приват рум (частные апартаменты, которые дешевле гостиницы) меня почему-то не взяли, наверное, потому что я одна, так что пожить за 5-10 евро не удалось. Ну я и сопротивляться не стала и отправилась в гостиницу.

Маврово место пафосное, тут самая большая в стране горнолыжка, что, судя по количеству снега, не удивительно. Но сейчас не сезон и очень пустынно.

На ресепшене гостиницы состоялся забавный разговор:

- сколько стоит одноместный номер, минимальная цена,
- 25 евро, без завтрака, и 5 евро завтрак,
- хм, а может 15 евро с завтраком?
- ок!)

Так быстро я, пожалуй, никогда не торговалась)

За окном сугробы и вид на старую разрушенную церквушку у озера, а я, закрыв глаза, стою под струями горячей-горячей воды, и за это можно продать душу дьяволу…

mavrovo  P1150668

А потом вкусно кушаю «свинское» мясо с рисом и картошкой и снова пью вино, за хороший тринадцатый! день похода, за то, что нагнала свой график, за бедолагу-мишку и окончание живописной горной части маршрута по уже родной Македонии…

День 14. 25 апреля. Дороги-дороги…

(Маврово - Тетово - Скопье, 104,7км, 6:06чхв, 520м. набора высоты)

Так как в гостинице у меня завтрак только в 8 утра, я никуда не тороплюсь. Заодно и ночной ливень успевает закончиться, и выглядывает солнце.

Только около 9 утра я выезжаю. Прощальный взгляд на Маврово и любимые снега, и дорога устремляется вниз. Через 15 км она выходит на трассу до Гостивара, и начинается гадкое, узкое, загруженное машинами шоссе, которое после горных дорог вводит меня в транс.

P1150673  P1150674

Вообще я настолько стрессую на загруженных дорогах, что стараюсь ими не ездить. И вчера у меня возникла мысль, не найти ли мне от Гостивара или от Тетово автобус, чтоб не пилить 100км по этому ужасу. Но велосипед разбирать неохота. И я начала выяснять, попутно копаясь в картах, есть ли альтернативные дублирующие дорожки. Парень на ресепшене и гаишники на развилке с шоссе сказали, что других дорог нет. Но как же так! Я весь вечер провозилась с картами и нашла! И вредность взяла своё) я решила доказать, что объезды существуют.

Но до Гостивара мне все-таки пришлось ехать трассой. Гостивар поразил меня потрясающе паркующимися автомобилистами. Вы думаете это смешно, когда приводят фотографии «парковка у салона красоты» или «блондинка за рулем»? Да наши блондинки просто асы парковки по сравнению с жителями Гостивара. Из 4 полос они 3 умудряются занять хаотично припаркованными машинами. До сих пор жалею, что не включила камеру, пробираясь между ними.

P1150678  scopie1

В Гостиваре я направляюсь к мосту от которого хочу выехать на найденную на карте маленькую дублирующую дорожку в 4км от основной трассы. На мосту стоит смотрящий в форме, и я обращаюсь к нему с тем же вопросом: есть ли альтернативы. Он снова уверяет меня, что нет. И только когда я показываю карту, уклончиво говорит: ну как бы да, но плохая, но на велосипеде может и ничего. Только проехав этой дорогой, я поняла, почему мне про нее не говорили.

Дорога 48 деревень, так я её назвала. Потому что на 25км до Тетово бесчисленное множество поселков сменяют здесь друг друга без промежутков. Мусульманских поселков! В этом похоже и причина. У меня было ощущение, что я приехала в узбекский кишлак) – аксакалы в тюбетейках, женщины в халатах и платках, мечети, и даже восточный базар с ассортиментом от укропа до лопат. Во время косовского конфликта Македонию наводнили беженцы, и обосновались в районе Тетово и вот тут, вдоль границы с Албанией. Тем не менее, ехалось мне очень спокойно, население мирное и улыбчивое, деревенская дорога загружена тарантасами, повозками, и прочим простым транспортом, иногда на закоулках непросто определить, по главной ли я всё ещё еду. А ещё ощущение, что харчевен и мелких лавочек тут больше, чем в остальной Македонии вместе взятой. Азия!

В Тетово, чтоб не проезжать через весь город, пытаюсь сразу выехать краем на дублирующий платную трассу на Скопье асфальт. И понимая, что пропускаю центр города с полноценным общепитом, ем двумя большими гамбургерами в закусочной за какую-то очень маленькую сумму, потому что добрый парень на кассе, глядя на голодную Свету, один гамбургер ей простил).

Выезд из Тетово нашла, но не сразу. Когда есть платная трасса, то на развязках все делается для того, чтобы съезд на старую дублирующую дорогу знали только «просвещенные». Сама дорога от жары, общей усталости и скудности пейзажей, эмоций не вызвала, а так как сегодня выходной, то в некоторых деревушках ещё попадались выпившие и не совсем адекватные молодые люди. Неприятно.
Въезд в Скопье тоже был не из веселых, всё-таки Скопье большой город.

scopie2  scopie3

Долго ищу свой примеченный дома хостел, в итоге нахожу на краю городского парка. Но мест увы нет. А ведь именно на эту точку сориентирован мой будущий попутчик, который должен приехать завтра. В итоге нахожу отельчик в этом же городском парке, ужинаю пиццей, стираюсь и отправляюсь спать.

Итоги

Так миновала половина моего путешествия, и так миновала одиночная часть моего путешествия. Завтра из Косово приедет на автобусе мой попутчик, парень из Питера, Лёша. И Сербию и Черногорию мы поедем уже вдвоем.
Хорошо это или плохо – не знаю. Я уже совсем привыкла быть одной, и даже полюбила это состояние. Ещё вчера я не знала, как при таком эмоциональном перегрузе поеду дальше. Но уже сегодня смогла перестроится, приняв мысль, что мой поход закончен. А то, что начнется завтра, – это будет уже новый поход. Так удалось себя немного обмануть).
А всего через неделю в районе в районе Тетово и в самом Скопье начнутся вооруженные конфликты между местным полицией и косовскими сепаратистами, требующими себе в Македонии больше прав и свобод, о чем я узнаю уже из новостей. Иными словами, Македония случилась очень вовремя. Мира и покоя этой красивой стране.

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