06 Фев 2018

 

Вступление.

Исландия имеет массу особенностей для велосипеда. Основные из них - первое: постоянный ураганный ветер, он дует всегда, и вопрос только в том совпадает его направление с вашим движением или нет, а второе: очень умеренный рельеф, казалось бы это плюс? а я не уверена. горный я человек, мне неуютно на больших пустынных пространствах, когда все видно вокруг на 20-30километров. Хорошо что в этом году у меня был ледовый Байкал - тренировку огромными тягучими открытыми пространствами я прошла. Но самобытность этой страны все же настолько зашкаливает, что ей можно простить и первое и второе.

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4 августа. Переезд Рейкьявик – Акурейри. Маленькие портовые северные...

Раздался гулкий раскат пароходного гудка, и в тот же момент часы на главной башне лютеранской церкви пробили 18:00, и огромный теплоход начал медленно набирать ход.

Так могла бы начинаться хорошая книга, но сегодня это одно мгновенье из жизни маленького портового городка Акурейри. А я гляжу на этот огромный круизный теплоход на тысячи мест и думаю, может быть когда-нибудь я тоже буду в сухой теплой маленькой каюте смотреть на пролетающих чаек, на маленькие рыбацкие и экскурсионные шлюпки, попивать хороший чай с книжкой в руке, и радоваться старости, тому что не нужно жить месяц на улице в палатке, каждый день преодолевать суровость северной природы, и уметь и в этом состоянии удивляться настоящему и матереть под жёсткими исландскими ветрами. Может…

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Я проснулась сегодня в 5 утра, чтоб успеть к 7:10 собрать велорюкзак первый раз в этом походе и позавтракать. За дорогу я переживала, особенно когда на остановку вывалила огромная толпа ожидающих.
Но все обошлось.

Забирающий до автовокзала автобус подъехал к кемпингу вовремя. Водителем был все тот же пожилой седовласый дедушка, с которым я уже ездила дважды. Он заботливо по-отечески принял у меня велосипед, с которого я тоже заботливо уже сняла педали, и повесил на задний багажник автобуса, специально для велосипеда. Затем я даже успела впихнуть свой велорюкзак в багажник (что удалось не всем, так как автобус был битком) и занять место. Через 10 минут мы были на автостанции.

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Водитель автобуса до Акурейри немного испугался меня с великом, так как у него велобагажника не было, а автобус тоже был полон. Но я сказала «спокойно!», и уложила велик без педалей плашмя в багажник на чьи-то рюкзаки вторым слоем. Получилось хорошо! И водитель сразу повеселел. А я забралась на первый ряд поближе к окнам. Дорога будет красивой!

Выехали мы под дождем. Но по мере продвижения на север погода наладилась. Автобус шел не совсем трассой №1, а в какой-то момент свернул на второстепенки, объезжая берегами и тоннелями северо-западные фьорды с небесно-голубым океаном и маленькими портовыми деревушками. Тоннели тут очень длинные, по 2-7км, освещенные, но шириной они в одну машину с карманами для разъездов, и ехать в них даже на машине очень не комфортно. Хорошо, что на моем велопути тоннелей не будет.

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В Акурейри автобус пришел около 16:00. Я заселилась в кемпинг, сварила ужин в виде пюре с сосисками, и только потом пошла гулять.
Теплоход отходил, окутывая своими протяжными гудками бухту; церковь созывала на вечернюю службу.

Не знаю, за что я так обожаю порты. Может в прошлой жизни я выходила в море на какой-нибудь деревянной рыбацкой шхуне, под парусами… а теперь эта романтика ведет меня не к осмотру архитектуры, а на набережную, к кораблям… Может…

Сам порт маленький, как и центральная часть города – милая, но очень маленькая. Зато такая уютная. Сегодня пятница, на центральной площади поставили сцену, куча уличной еды, работают маленькие ресторанчики с вполне терпимыми ценами. И признаться честно, душа просит гульнуть… но мне нельзя, мне завтра на велосипед. Так что я обхожусь горячим ход догом с жареным луком, чтоб не окочуриться на ледяном ветру, пока слушаю как поет исландский артист. А поет, кстати, хорошо.

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К вечеру ветер стал еще более ледяным и я вернулась в кемпинг, купив по дороге в магазине бутылку морковного сока для завтрашнего питья по дороге и для бутылки в подфляжник. Так как воду тут продают либо в 0.5 либо в 2 литра. 0.5 – мало, 2 литра в подфляжник не влазит.

Вы наверное думаете, что это ужасно неудобно спать в палатке чуть ли не в центре города? То ли дело на природе. Но на самом деле, есть какая-то особая романтика засыпать под городской шум, звуки проезжающих машин, под музыку с центральной площади, и вместе с тем, как утихает город, всё глубже и глубже погружаться в сон, в спокойный сон. На природе, когда ночуешь совсем один, включаются инстинкты, которые иногда наоборот мешают. А город, умиротворяет и успокаивает. Не каждый. Но маленькие портовые северные города…


5 августа. Акурейри – Миватн, 101.2км, 8:13 чхв. Когда очень хочется в перевал.

Собираясь встать в 5 утра, я еле подняла себя в 5:30. Перекусила чаем и хлебом с сыром, и в 7 утра выехала из кемпинга. Дул слабый ветер, небо хмурилось, но дождя не было.

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Сегодня у меня первый велодень и сразу же первый авантюрный участок – срезка трассы N1 через грунтовый перевал с набором высоты около 600 метров. Обогнув залив, я нашла поворот на срезку, но на дороге начали сразу же появляться предупреждающие знаки: тупик 17км, тупик 11км, тупик 8км, при этом неплохая грунтовая дорога вполне уверенно ползла в перевал, и было не совсем понятно, почему же знаки предвещают тупик. Да и на картах эта дорога нанесена. Психологически не просто ехать под знаки «тупик», но кто не рискует, тот не пьет морковного сока. А я его сегодня пью и еду дальше, так как ничем кроме потери времени и сил я не рисковала, а в перевал хотелось. Знаете, всем по-разному хочется,... например, в отпуск. Мне иногда по-детски хочется в перевал, и непременно в грунтовый!

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Дорога размашистыми серпантинами прорезала гору, а над горой из под туч прорезалось голубое небо, предвестник хорошего.

Заехала в перевал я на удивление легко, несмотря на полную загрузку рюкзака. И очень рада, что поехала в Исландию на нормальных кантрийных покрышках, а не на полусликах. С рюкзаком на багажнике меньше прокрутов на грунте вверх и устойчивей вниз.

На перевале мои сомнения усилила цепь поперек дороги с табличкой «closed». Что же там такое, что дорогу закрыли? Но раз уже все равно забралась, то обогнув столбики, я поехала на спуск. Вроде и мостики через ручьи на месте, и серпантинные витки не разрушены. А потом, уже в конце спуска, увидела. Строят тоннель! А значит именно тут вскоре и проляжет новый участок трассы№1, чтобы не опоясывать хребет.

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Вокруг все разворочено и видимого проезда действительно нет. Я подъехала к рабочим, поулыбалась им, они поулыбались мне и показали, какие лужи и кучи надо миновать, чтоб выехать на старую дорогу. Так что я прорвалась) и даже вполне оперативно, сэкономив 2км с объезда мыса.
Теперь я в первый раз на главной трассе №1. Асфальт конечно – это не грунты, но и ехать мне по ней не постоянно, к счастью. Да и трафик на ней безопасный и ненапряжный.

Через 15км я подъехала к водопаду Годафосс, куда местные по преданиям скидывали своих богов. К слову сказать, не все боги благополучно потонули. Некоторые застряли ниже по течению в виде огромных скальных выступов.

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Водопад впечатляющий. Тут я перекусила, отдохнула и поняла, что сегодня смогу сразу доехать до озера Миватн, сделав план двух дней за один. В последующем это стало фишкой в Исландии «а не проехать ли два дня за один», иногда правда это заканчивалось слишком большой усталостью и обещанием себе больше так не делать)

Но сегодня мне выгодно сразу добраться до Миватна. Так как последующие 2 дня обещают сильные дожди. А на Миватне у меня запланирована дневка, что позволит их немного переждать.

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И я поехала.

В Исландии очень тягучие дороги. Вроде и холмы есть, и рельеф, но все равно что не подъем, то тягун, а вокруг видимость на многие многие километры.

Трудно сказать, сколько миниперевальчиков я миновала, пока доехала до ближайшей оконечности озера Миватн. Много. Ветер с севера усилился, и те которые были против ветра, дались непросто. Хотя последующие дни покажут, что сегодняшний ветер – это просто лёгкий бриз)).

У озера я поняла, что осталось всего 16км до кемпинга, и поехала не торопясь северной, более пустой дорогой, по пути много остонавливаясь, высматривая многочисленных птичек и фотографируя. К сожалению, все масштабы этого озера и какая-то особая его магия, особый покой при общей сдержанной живописности – не влезают в фотоаппарат.

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Вообще жизнь на севере куда более спокойная и размеренная, чем на юге с его экспрессивными пейзажами, загруженными дорогами и снующими туда-сюда туристами.

Около 17:00 я въехала в кемпинг, который представлял собой еще один оплот умиротворенности. Множество палаток при отсутствии людей, мягкая травка, заросшая кромка берега с множеством уточек.

Душ в этой кемпинге включен в цену. И туда я и отправилась первым делом. И только потом накатила усталость от очень долгого и не самого простого первого ходового дня. Хотя ноги на удивление абсолютно свежие.

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Сварила кашу с тунцом, и еле смогла покушать. А потом немного отлежавшись, дошла до тур.инфоцентра, уже закрытого, и до магазинчика, еще открытого, где купила скир на утро и батареек для навигатора. Нашла начало завтрашних троп для прогулок по окрестностям, и отправилась рано спать. После 8 часов чистого педаляжа, я заслужила отдых.

6 августа. Дневка на Миватне. Покой.

Утром я мучительно пыталась поднять себя, но организм не хотел, а я и не стала слишком ему сопротивляться. Все равно за бортом брызгал дождик и небо было черным от туч.

В 9 утра я все ж взяла себя в руки и вылезла из спальника. Всё ж вчерашний боевой день отозвался в организме общей вымотанностью. Я вскипятила чаю, попила сама, залила термос, поела бутербродов, и в 10 утра пошла гулять.

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Сначала дошла тропой до места разлома тектонических плит – северо-американтской и европейской. В Исландии есть и более примечательные места этого разлома, но и тут мне понравилось. Вздыбленная порода образует на стыке плит ущелье, из которого поднимается теплый пар с запахом сероводорода, а в некоторых местах оно заполнено горячей водой. В одной из таких пещер с водой сделан спуск для туристов. Красиво!

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Далее тропа идет к большому кратеру потухшего вулкана Hverfjall. Не столь красив сам вулкан, сколько виды, которые открываются с его кромки, даже сейчас в пасмурную погоду. С одной стороны открывается вид на озеро, на маленькие башенки-кратеры, торчащие из воды. У подножия обширные лавовые поля, образующие причудливые фигуры и лабиринты. С другой стороны дымятся вдалеке геотермальные станции, вырастают красно-рыжие вулканчики поменьше. А кромка моего вулкана имеет окружность в несколько километров, есть где прогуляться. И хоть на подъеме на него прилично народа, на прогулке по окружности люди совсем не мешаются.

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Нагулявшись вдоволь, чтоб не идти до дома вдоль трассы, решила вернуться почти той же тропой, что и пришла, другим ее ответвлением; так как тропа всегда интереснее дороги. И попала на огромные заросли черники и костяники! Это, скажу я вам, не хуже всяких там вулканов!)) Витамины ж! а они в этой стране редкость. Хоть эта редкость еще и не до конца выспела, я все равно слопала несколько горстей, и никак не могла оторваться, чтоб идти дальше. А еще тут довольно много грибов. Но в них я не очень разбираюсь, так что пусть растут.

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В лагерь я вернулась около 15 часов, пообедала, и хотела даже съездить на велике еще одну радиалочку до серных и фумароловых полей. Но поняв, что радиалочка будет через перевальчик, и мне завтра все равно ехать в ту же сторону, я решила что завтра и посмотрю, и с чувством выполненного долга вернулась в кемпинг, где переделала кучу мелких дел, и подремав, постирав вещи, зарядив аккумулятор фотоаппарата всего за 100крон, сварив гречу с сосиками, поужинав, встретив красивейший закат, отправилась в 9 вечера спать.

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7 августа. Миватн – Асберджи, 105км, 8:00 чхв. Дайте мне живописный пейзаж, и я уеду хоть на край света.

Утром лило, и в 5 утра я не встала, встала только в 7:30, а в 8:45 выехала из кемпинга. Вокруг было пасмурно и дул довольно сильный ветер. Миновав 5км через небольшой перевальчик, я доехала до фумароловой поляны и отправилась гулять. Очень эффектное место, все вокруг булькает и шипит, и пахнет тут далеко не только сероводородом. А ты идешь по узким грунтовым тропинкам между этих серных разноцветных котлов и ловишь себя на мысли, что «земля живая!» в этом месте звучит совсем не так как, например, на Алтае или в родном огороде. Тут совсем другая «жизнь». Причем казалось бы без живых клеток и фотосинтеза, а жизнь!

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А дальше началась куда более нудная вулканическая пустыня. 20 километров черно-серых полей с редкими вкраплениями травы. Иногда встречаются остатки мертвых лесов. Деревья смогли вырасти на скудных почвах, но когда их корни дошли до пластов с ядовитыми для них веществами, они погибли.

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На 28км я ушла с трассы №1 налево. Вернусь я на нее теперь совсем не скоро. Она уходит на восток, а моя дорога уходит на север, собирать все северные и северо-восточные фьорды.

С поворотом на север началась тяжелая работа против сильнейшего встречного ветра. Вообще прорабатывая маршрут, я старалась угадать розу ветров, которая в это время в восточной половине острова дует по часовой стрелке. Но тут я знала, что ветер точно будет встречным. И он был! А вокруг еще и как назло одна нудная черная пустыня, и самое примичательное, на что можно смотреть – это маленький экранчик gps-навигатора на руле. Люди, которые путешествуют по центральной Исландии, где по такой пустыне можно ехать всю неделю – как вы это выдерживаете?! Все ж я человек горный, а не пустынный. Рельеф тут конечно тоже есть, и против такого адового ветра даже маленькие тягуны кажутся суровыми подъемами, и за 27км до водопада Деттифосс они здорово тренируют мне силу воли. А впрочем, как всегда: дождь льет, ветер дует, а я еду – каждый занят своим делом, и каждый в нем на удивление успешен!

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От дороги к водопаду свороток 3км в одну сторону с очень приличными взгорками. Вкручиваю, в ожидании что на водопаде будет хоть какое-нть маленькое местечко, чтоб спрятаться от ветра и перекусить, так как уже очень голодно.

Увы, самое прекрасное и спокойное местечко тут – это туалет, в нем не дует, в нем на минуты утихает этот дикий рев ветра в ушах, но тут точно не перекусишь)).

Так что я достаю из рюкзака замерзшими пальцами пачку печенья, и отправляюсь на тропу до водопада, жуя ее по дороге. Лучший способ поесть и не замерзнуть – это есть в движении. Водопад грандиознейший. Но все брызги ветер с большим усердием обрушивает на нижнюю смотровую площадку. Посмотрев на насквозь вымокших людей, которые оттуда поднимались, я поняла, что лучше ограничусь верхней, даже на ней не так просто поснимать, не замочив фотоаппарата.

P1230097  P1230099

Недалеко от Деттифосса еще один очень красивый широкий водопад, состоящий из множества струй, красивый.

Пока гуляла по водопадам, слопала пачку печенья и немного отдохнула от ветра. Ноги не забиты, а вот межреберные мышцы дышать на ветер устали. Но надо ехать дальше. Пока выезжаю на дорогу, с некоторым опасением думаю о том, что сейчас асфальт закончится и дальше мало того что я опять поверну строго на север строго на ветер, так еще и будет грунтовка.

P1230116  P1230122

Но оказывается эта грунтовка была моим счастьем и избавлением. Нет, не от ветра. Он нудного пустынного пейзажа. Наконец-то я опять могу смотреть куда-то кроме экранчика своего gps )). Крутить по ней конечно потяжелей, но настолько приятней, чем по асфальту, что поехалось мне значительно легче и веселее.

От радости я даже надела новые перчатки с пальцами, пока еще чистые и красивые). Парень у водопада, узнавая в какую сторону я поеду, сказал: this is amazing place! Пока что тут самый amazing – это я. Остальные крутят по трассе №1, или едут в машинах. Всё ж велосипедисты в Исландии – самые крутые люди, потому что все они немного психи).

А виды тут действительно хороши. Сильно больше зелени, вдали видна широкая долина реки, прорезающая ландшафт каменным ущельем. Покрышки радостно цепляют за грунт, наматывая километры словно намазывая масло на хлеб, и 25км пролетают почти незаметно, даже не смотря на все тот же ветрюган.

P1230140  P1230156

А потом снова начинается асфальт, по которому я спускаюсь в местечко Асберджи, голодная, как самый голодный волк на земле, и обветренная, как будто я уже месяц стою на этом ветру. И первое, что я делаю, захожу на заправку и заказываю себе супа и какао. Это счастье! Горячее питательное счастье.

Красная как рак и с осознанием, что жизнь прекрасна, я поехала 2км до кемпинга, по пути заехав на тур.информацию, оплатив место под палатку.

Поставила палатку и решила вернуться на тур.информацию узнать погоду на завтра, но там уже закрылись, зато у дверей ловил вай-фай, так что погоду я все ж узнала.

Местечко тут приятное, но завтра время тратить на осмотр все ж не хотелось, и поняв, что я сытая и сил еще немного есть, отправилась на пустом велике еще на 4км в одну сторону смотреть, что ж это такое за Асберджи.

P1230170  P1230175

Ущелье по бокам сложено из отвесных базальтовых пород, в некоторых местах они образуют почти правильные «тумбы». В конце есть озерко, и смотровая площадка. Людей никого, так как уже смеркается. А когда по этому ущелью пролетают крича птички, звук такой, как будто кричит доисторический птеродактиль. Я первый раз даже присела от неожиданности.

Вернувшись домой с чувством выполненного долга, я сварила лапши с сосисками, поужинала второй раз и легла спать. Еще один боевой день миновал. То ли еще будет!?

8 августа. Асберджи – Копоскер – Рауфархёфн, 96км, 7:26чхв. Девушка с железным терпением.

Когда я делала эти записи в дневнике, этот крайне непростой и отчасти даже спорный день уже миновал. А начинался он очень хорошо. Небо как всегда было с тучами, но тучи были высоко и из них ничего не лилось.

Так как легла я вчера только в 12 ночи, сегодня опять долго не могла подняться, и проснулась только в 7:30. Ох, как дорого мне мог стоить вечером этот лишний час утреннего сна! Но это будет вечером.

P1230179  P1230189

А выехала я около 9 утра. Перед выездом пообщавшись с пожилой немецкой парой, которые тоже путешествуют на велосипедах. Дай Бог мне в таком возрасте тоже хотеть ездить на велосипеде по таким климатически-сложным странам и не говорить себе «Света, ты для этого уже стара!». Но они не едут каждый день, а по самочувствию и по погоде.

От выезда дорога устремилась к краю побережья по зеленым фермам и долинам, и наконец-то выехала к океану. Тут он красивый, бирюзовый, с черным, отливающим на скупом солнце, пляжем.

P1230197  P1230202

Но таким океан будет не всегда на моем пути, хотя именно таким мне его и хотелось бы видеть.

На сороковом километре я приехала в последний оплот цивилизации, городок Копоскер, где даже есть маленький кемпинг. Тут посидела 15 минут, передохнула, съела полпачки печенья. Впереди меня ждало 60км грунтовой дороги по самой кромке большого мыса до следующего кемпинга, и мой любимый северный встречный ветер, который сегодня не намного слабей вчерашнего. Зато небо вроде даже начало яснеть, и изредка пробиваются редкие лучи солнца.

Но ох уж эти грунты!.. Нет, начиналось всё вполне неплохо. Дорога по укатанному грейдеру перепрыгнула хорошенький перевальчик, спустилась к морю и начался ужас). Ужас – это очень сильная гребенка с камнями и против штормового ветра, и иногда в горку. И как назло и пейзажи опять исчезли. В этой части, в северной оконечности полуострова, океан черный, спокойный и абсолютно неэнергичный. К нему выходят обширные пресные водоемы со множеством птиц. Очень редко встречаются не до конца понятного мне предназначения фермы, хотя овец тут нет, и лодок тоже не видно.

P1230210  P1230211

А я пытаюсь принять эту цифру 60км, чтоб не сойти с ума от этой дороги, когда скорость падает до 7км/ч.

Это было тяжело. Когда мне бывает очень тяжело, я никогда не пытаюсь бороться, я впускаю это в себя. Ведь я не сильный мужчина с железными ногами, я всего лишь девушка с железным терпением. Я представляю, что кручу педали, словно намазываю на хлеб масло (ммм..сейчас бы масла!)), грунтовая покрышка цепляется за гравий и выносит меня вперед, и так движение за движением, оборот за оборотом,…

Сколько таких оборотов прошло, я не знаю, но на 70-ом километре стало совсем уныло и голодно. Я остановилась, съела оставшиеся полпачки печенья, за это время задубела на ветру как цуцик, и поехала дальше.

P1230228  P1230230

Впереди еще 30 или 40. Это много. Столько я осознать не могу. Я ставлю маленькие цели… как помните у Экзюпери «Господи, научи меня искусству маленьких шагов» …

Еще 15 км, до 85км на одометре. А дальше я загадала, что станет легче. И снова я «намазываю масло на хлеб», километр за километром.
Иногда, когда дорога идет узкими полосками между океаном и пресными водоемами, висят знаки «осторожно, птицы». Я б сделала картинку «осторожно, птицы атакуют!». Трижды меня атаковали крачки. И зависают над тобой в воздухе по несколько штук довольно низко и истошно орут звуком пикирующего бомбардировщика. Но в макушку клювом я к счастью ни разу не получила) уже хорошо). Уж не знаю, почему местная автобусная компания «Sterna» выбрала себе в название это «милейшее существо».

P1230240  P1230244

А тем временем на 85-ом километре дорога начала поворачивать на юг, и ветер, который к тому моменту уже стал восточным, задул мне в левый бок сзади, а значит не в лицо, а значит, скорость моя наконец-то увеличилась…и… начался дождь. Его-то мне до полного счастья и не доставало!)
Дождь всё усиливался, но я уже видела мой городок впереди, попутно думая, как же я под таким дождем буду ставить палатку?

И вот 5км, 2км, указатель городка, долгожданное начало асфальта. Кемпинг на дальней оконечности города, малюсенький, на небольшой площадке за школой в низинке, закрытый от ветра бугром. Я подъезжаю и дождь добреет и стихает. Под моросью быстро ставлю палатку, закидываю внутрь рюкзак, пристёгиваю к палатке велик, и он снова полил во всю силу. А я перепаковываюсь, и не переодеваясь, в дождевом иду на разведку в сан.узел. А там горячий душ! Без всяких автоматов и с отоплением! Вот оно счастье длинного, испытывающего на прочность дня. Долго-долго греюсь под горячими струями.

P1230252  P1230274

После душа успеваю набрать котелок и бутылку воды, возвращаюсь в палатку, и дождь сходит с катушек с новой силой. Но мне уже можно не выходить наружу вовсе.

Под таким дождем я конечно уже бы не смогла поставиться на сухую. Вот она, цена получаса, часа, которые я могла проваляться с утра.

От усталости я долго не могу покушать. Сначала просто ем сладкое и ложусь на 40 минут поспать. А потом не торопясь варю ужин и кипячу чай.

Теперь всё славно. А за бортом льет и льет. Я одна на этом маленьком клочке земли на окраине городка, под дождем в своем маленьком надежном домике с горячей кашей, термосом чая и шоколадными печеньками. Если завтра будет лить также, придётся дневать. Запасных дней у меня много, а погода бывает такой, которую пытаться перебороть бесполезно.

P1230264  P1230272

Почему я называю этот день спорным? Потому что мне изначально интересно было проехать по кромке этого самого северного мыса, и я ожидала от нее живописности, так как это кромка океана. Хотя существовала срезка через перевал от Копоскера на другую сторону мыса, и возможно она была более живописной и менее изнуряющей, чем эта кромка совершенно бесхарактерного океана.

Но это тоже Исландия. Она бывает и такой, с пейзажами пост.аппокалипсиса, глядя на которые думаешь: «блин, и это ж тут такой разгар лета!».

9 августа. Райфархёфн – Торсхёфн. 72,4км, 4:17чхв. Сила попутного ветра.

Если вы все еще не можете складно читать географические названия Исландии? Я вам немного помогу. Почти все города делятся тут на хёфны, фьордуры и вики, соответственно на порты, фьорды и бухты. И к ним уже вначале добавляется само название. И выходит какой-нть бла-бла-хёфн, бла-бла-фьордур, или бла-вик.

Ближе к утру на небе объявили небольшое затишье, и я даже подумала о хорошем. Когда около 5 утра я выглянула наружу, то небо было прекрасным! с прожилками голубого. Но уже через полчаса снова начался дождь, который лил, лил и лил, и не собирался останавливаться. И с одной стороны, я собиралась дневать пережидая непогоду, а с другой, я ж беспокойная душа, застрявшая в какой-то дыре…простите глуши). В общем я металась. Поспав еще немного, откупорив заваренный с вечера термос, слопала последние полпачки шоколадного печенья, моего главного исландского антидепрессанта. «Раз днёвка, мне всё можно» - подумала я, и легла спать дальше.

P1230276  P1230294

Около 10 утра у дождя случилась передышка, и я все ж вылезла из палатки, умылась, и сходила на бугор посмотреть на небо и на горизонт. Ничего хорошего там не показывали, черным черно.

Ну ладно, дневать так дневать. Но так как печеньки закончились, я решила скататься по быстрому до заправки в начале городка, так как других магазинов тут замечено не было. Оделась в ходовую одежду, отцепила велик, сходила на берег пофотографировать маяк и поехала. Но оказалось что заправка работает с 11:30, а еще один маленький магазинчик неподалеку тоже откроется только через полчаса. Ждать лень и я вернулась обратно, и снова легла спать, написав маме смс «остаюсь дневать тут».

P1230296  P1230305

Но в 11:15 начало появляться солнце и поднялся очень сильный ветер. Я снова вылезла посмотреть на небо. Выезжать сейчас было чуток поздновато, но лежать очень не хотелось. Я опять заметалась. В 11:30 солнце выглянуло активней, а палатку подсушило на ветру от воды, и я поняла, что надо срочно рвать когти, а то я сойду тут с ума от тоски. Быстро собрала вещи и уже в 11:45 выехала.

Оказалось, что за ночь ветер сменился, и теперь он дует не северо-восточный, а северо-западный! А значит почти мой!

20км он был боковой, а потом я немного развернулась вместе с дорогой, и понеслась душа в рай! Какое же это счастье – ехать по ветру, по штормовому ветру. И дорога сегодня была очень красивой, не в пример вчерашней. И на небе даже есть голубые пятна. И хоть меня через раз и накрывает зарядами проливного дождя из туч, пролетающих мимо еще быстрее меня на велосипеде, и хоть дорога идет через небольшие перевалы, - я даже успеваю немного пофотографировать в просветы. И снова волна дождя, а потом волна ветра, который успевает высушить одежду, и все по новой.

И даже океан сегодня наконец-то голубой и с волнами.

P1230328  P1230354

А на полях улыбается миньон Боб, поставленный каким-то неленивым фермером из двух стожков сена, и как бы приговаривает «смотри как здорово!»

Единственное что немного омрачает мне дорогу, это болящая нога. Я немного промахнулась с обувью. Треккинговые кроссовки, которые отлично подошли для пешеходной части, оказались плохими для велосипеда из-за высоких задников, которые передавили ахиллы, и на правой ноге, которая когда-то была травмирована, ахилл воспалился, и вместе с ним сустав. И сколько я не меняла положение стопы и стельки, воспаление не спадало и педалить становилось порой приступообразно больно. Если так пойдет дальше, заканчивать поход я буду в сандале. Но пока еще терпимо.

P1230359  P1230350

А тем временем несмотря на очень поздний выезд, дорогу я проехала в удовольствие, и уже около 17 часов ставила палатку в кемпинге в новом маленьком портовом городочке, правда под тот же дикий ветер, используя булыжники и какие-то огромные плахи от забора, чтоб закрепить борта и юбку палатки.

А потом отправилась в магазин, который на мое счастье еще не успел закрыться, и купила кучу вкусной еды для ужина – нормальной картошки, лука, банку фрикаделек, фасоль в томате. И сделала просто отличную тушеную картошку со всем этим, и налопалась, как в голодном детстве в новый год, так что лежать получалось только на боку)).

А тем временем около 19:00 опять полило, но я уже всё успела.

P1230385  P1230377

Теперь пишу эти строки и надеюсь, что когда-нибудь я захочу снова кушать, так как картошка еще осталась).
Не знаю, что готовит мне день грядущий. Подумаю об этом утром. Я искренне жду, когда же мне понадобится в этой стране солнце-защитный крем.

10 августа. Днёвка. Ожидание у моря погоды.

Всю ночь палатку сильно трепало ветром, и спала я не очень. А потом полило, и лило всё утро без малейших перспектив. В отличие от вчерашнего дня, сегодня даже трепыхаться не стоило. Я и не трепыхалась – спала. Потом встала, поела вчерашней холодной картошки, запила горячим чаем из термоса и легла спать дальше. Проспала я так часов до 14, под мерные волны дождя. Потом решила, что так я отлежу себе все бока, и собралась пойти погулять по городку, и даже переоделась в ходовую одежду. Но тут полило с новой силой и я опять завалилась дрыхнуть.

Около 15 часов дождь прекратился, появился шанс не вымокнуть, и я пошла гулять. Сначала ушла на подобие местно набережной, побродила там, нашла даже смотровую площадку со скамейкой. Потом ушла в дальний конец деревни, где увидела указатель «i», и следуя ему, вышла на большое здание бассейна.

P1230392  P1230393

Мне кажется, теплые бассейны в этих маленьких северных городках строят специально, чтоб местные жители не испытывали холодовой усталости и для поддержания здоровья, как социально значимый объект.

В бассейне действительно была стойка information и дяденька, которого я попросила посмотреть для меня прогноз погоды на последующие дни, и спросила, можно ли воспользоваться их вай-фаем. В итоге меня отправили на отличный диван, предложили кофе, и я отлично скоротала пару часов своей дневки, проболтав с друзьями, семьей, и выузнав погоду. Завтра обещали еще дождь, а с послезавтра и далее хорошую погоду.

Тоска конечно. Еще один день я сидеть совсем не хочу. Перевальчик завтра есть, но не слишком суровый. Попробую ехать.

После сеанса интернета я пошла в магазин и купила маленький кусочек сливочного маслица, печенек, банку рыбы в томате и банку консервированной груши! и скир(местный йогурт). Надо же как-то бороться с унылостью Исландской погоды. Будем бороться консервированной грушей!)

В общем по возвращению я сварила кашки, намазала на хлебушек маслице, открыла грушу, и радости моей не было предела. Завтра точно поеду!

А дождь крепился и не шел полвечера. Я даже смазала у велика цепь, хоть и по влажному. И мелкими перебежками подзарядила телефон в сан.узле, который сегодня без душа и только с ледяной водой.

Вечером пришел мальчик собирать оплату за кемпинг (вчерашний кстати обешелся мне бесплатно), и узнав откуда я, сказал что я первый турист из России за все время в этой дыре). Узнав, что я путешествую на велосипеде, добавил «amazing!». Ага.
И после этого главный amazing этой дыры заварила себе термос на утро и улеглась спать.

11 августа. Торсхёфн – Вопнафьордур. 73.2км, 4:50чхв. Кашка без маслица.

Это был необычный день. В чем-то даже волшебный, а в чем-то переломный…не знаю.

Я так хотела сегодня ехать, что готова была вставать для этого даже ночью, но к утру тело расслабилось, и я крепко уснула. Напомнила мне о моих планах в 5 утра настойчивая птица, которая села на забор над палаткой и издала звук недовольного будильника. Со второй ее пытки, то есть попытки, я поняла, что это знак, и в 5:15 поднялась. Вчера я все ж изрядно перекормила организм, и позавтракать смогла с трудом. Быстро собрала вещи, надела на термуху велотрусы для дополнительного утепления, и в 6:45 выехала. Термометр на выезде показывал +7 градусов и желал счастливого пути). Город спал. Небо было хмурое и недовольное.

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Сразу начался мягкий грунтово-гравийный подъем на перевал. Дорога была немного раскисшей после дождей, но вполне терпимой. В спину мне дул мой теперь любимый северный ветер, а впереди на перевале лило.

Я ехала не спеша, я не торопилась, я давала природе время принять решение. Здесь она – полноправный хозяин, а не я… И тучи уходили дальше. Чем выше я поднималась, тем дальше отходил дождь. И вот первый перевал миновал, и я спускаюсь к океану. Он тоже хмурый, но живой. Второй перевал выше первого, и снова туго затянут густыми черными дождливыми массами. Но я еду не спеша. Я не тороплюсь. Я даю природе время самой принять решение…

Оглядываюсь назад, а там откуда я приехала, уже снова все заволокло. Меня словно ведут сегодня сквозь дождь, аккуратно, бережно, почти за руку.

Только на самой вершине второго перевала я все же вползаю в тучу, и меня накрывает морось. Но это уже вершина, а дальше спуск, и тучи снова отходят.

P1230413  P1230429

На спуске я очень замерзла, и очень кстати к городку начался небольшой подъем, который позволил согреться.

Городок очень маленький, тоже рыбацкий, две улицы – одна повыше, одна пониже, из-за этого кемпинг наверху я нашла не сразу и только с помощью местных жителей. Он на самом верху городского холма, совсем пустой. Я тут одна. Зато есть горячая вода, теплые туалеты с отоплением. Ставлю палатку и иду на генеральную мойку. Маленькое счастье дождливого хмурого дня.

Еще надо сказать, что приехала я в 12 дня. То есть у меня почти полудневка. После помывки принимаюсь варить суп, а за палаткой снова начинается сильный дождь. Я снова очень вовремя. Спасибо крикливой утренней птице, интуиции и местным духам дождя.

После обеда я собираюсь сходить поискать инфоцентр с вайфаем, но дождь не дает, и я опять укладываюсь спать. Отпуск так отпуск, куда ж деваться…

В 17 часов я понимаю, что дальше лежать уже нельзя, надеваю дождевое и иду в магазин. Душе нужен антидепрессант в виде вкусняшки. Душа просит маслица к вечерней кашке!

P1230433  P1230441

Я докупаю того чего не достает из продуктов, и маленький кусочек сливочного маслица.

Инфоцентр я тоже нахожу, но в нем какой-то пафосный ресторан, открытого вайфая нет и через 10 минут закроется. В общем, точную погоду на завтра я узнать не могу. Еще и на обратной дороге до кемпинга опять накрывает ливень.

P1230442  P1230446

Я быстренько заползаю в палатку. Сажусь в тамбуре, чтоб обсохнуть, и начинаю распаковывать продукты… а маслица нет! Нет моего маленького кусочка сливочного антидепрессанта. Похоже, я оставила его на кассе, а магазин уже закрылся.

И тут меня накрыло.

Сижу, шмыгаю носом под наворачивающиеся слезы. Нету моего маслица, которое я так хотела с кашкой. И дождь все льет и льет. И если б я страдала клаустрофобией, то уже б свихнулась столько сидеть в палатке.

И опять вспомнились Ергаки и Бащелак, когда тоже лило, и мы строили планы, что бы такого нарисовать на пологе палатки, чтоб не так скучно было на него смотреть изнутри, пережидая дожди. И сейчас у меня тоже палатка оранжевая. Только нет сейчас рядом тех дорогих мне людей, с которыми даже смотреть на полог палатки и слушать дождь было в удовольствие. «Ты думаешь, это ушла любовь, а это в горах наступила осень…».

Но я беру себя в руки, мою финики и сажусь пить чай. Я сама приняла решение ехать сюда одна. Так что теперь буду кушать кашку без маслица…

12 августа. Вопнафьордур – Еглистадир, 98.13км, 7:13чхв. С корабля на бал через перевал.

Ночью я проснулась от того, что стало очень холодно. Вышла из палатки, а небо всё в прогалинах, и над моим хребтом облака поднялись выше и открыли его. Это было замечательно! Значит мой путь свободен.

Дело в том, что тот перевал которым я собиралась дальше проехать, во вчерашнюю непогоду был бы просто закрыт для проезда. И ради него одного и стоило ждать погоды.

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Встала я около 7:30, давая воздуху немного прогреться, а небу проясниться окончательно. Выехала около 9 утра.

Утро было очень хорошим. Только ветер дул очень сильный северо-западный, иногда просто западный.

Долго объезжала фьорд. Сегодня на солнце океан синий, и от того особенно красивый. По дороге встретился небольшой симпатичный водопадик.

P1230466  P1230469

Только на 20-ом километре начался подъем в перевал. Уклон 15%. Не слабо для грунтовки. Предварительно сняла ветрозащитные штаны, чтоб мышцы ног не горели в подъем, и покрутила вверх. Перевал серпантинистый, и те витки, которые оказывались против ветра, давались особенно тяжело. Но виды с перевала очень и очень красивые, и это только на мою сторону, противоположную я еще не вижу. Ехалось тяжело. Но ехалось. Только боль в ноге усилилась от такого силового педаляжа. На верхних витках ветер стал такой силы, что пришлось спешиться, и даже пешком ветер норовил вырвать велик и унести фотик.

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Я начала немного напрягаться, и причина была веской. Вершина перевала пожалуй оказалась самой тяжелой и нервной. Так как это перевал через мыс от океана к океану, то на вершинном плато задувал просто ураган. Казалось бы садись и езжай, уже ведь ровно! Но я даже стояла рядом с велосипедом с большим трудом. В особые порывы и вовсе замирала и вжималась в него. И так аккуратно помаленьку миновала 500 метров вершины до начала спуска. Перед спуском подкрутила колодки на переднем тормозе, чтоб получше держали, и потихонечку поехала, ложась боком на ветер и стараясь ехать по внутренней стороне дороги подальше от края. Замерзла очень, и очень мечтала надеть штаны. Но где их тут наденешь? Унесет.

P1230513  P1230522

А спуск был красивый до безумия. Серпантины, океан, горы, долина реки, - я видела много красоты в своей жизни, и эта красота была одна из самых-самых.

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Но когда я в конце концов спустилась на твердую землю и надела на организм штаны, то счастью моему и вовсе не было предела. Я выдохнула с облегчением и села на травке перекусить. Меня не сносит с дороги и я могу кушать! А впереди еще 55км.

Вот эти километры, львиная доля из которых была грунтовыми, дались уже тяжковато. И ветер стал задувать встречный, и пейзажи менялись медленно, и эмоциональные силы остались там, на перевале, и нога ноет. Да и еду я практически без отдыха. Исландские ветра вообще не способствуют отдыху в дороге, даже не смотря на то, что я тепло одета, все равно это тепло во время стоянок выдувается быстро.

P1230532  P1230551

Но когда я доехала до трассы №1 (вот я на нее и вывалила спустя несколько дней), то села на 30 минут отдыхать у моста, так как понимала, что оставшиеся 22км до города, которые опять через перевальчик, я могу и не дотянуть.

Взгорок дался немного непросто, зато наверху открылись виды на высокие заснеженные горы юго-восточных фьордов, очень живописные. И в город я спустилась с перевала почти как на лифте, хоть и порядком измученная.

P1230556  P1230562

Тётя на ресепшене кемпинга, узнав, откуда я приехала, угостила меня дополнительным какао, и сказала, что я герой в ее глазах. Герой не герой, а за какао спасибо! Оно как раз кстати.

P1230552  P1230569

На территории кемпинга сегодня музыкальный фестиваль. Так что я немного с корабля на бал. Но после 23 часов музыка умолкает, и я, сварив томатного супа, засыпаю сном младенца.

13 августа. Эглистадир – Фаскрудсфьордур, 89,7км, 6:24чхв. Юго-восточные фьорды.

Утро было ясным и довольно холодным, +5. Я встала в 6:30, и покушать так и не смогла. Попила чаю с печеньками, собрала «ланч-пакет» из хлеба с сосисками и начала потихоньку собираться. Около 8:30 я выехала.

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Дорога почти сразу пошла в перевал. Машин утром было очень мало, ноги крутили хорошо, и даже ветер был довольно слабым. Так что заехала я в него вполне резво. А вокруг красота. Стоят высокие стены гор со снежниками и необычной формы – ступеньками.

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Интересно, что исландцы очень скромны в оценке красот и делают очень мало точек для остановки машин в красивых местах. Там где непальцы уже давно поставили бы три молитвенные  ступы и 12 барабанов, тут даже съехать на обочину негде. Хотя учитывая, что они поскидывали своих богов в Годафосс, какие в баню ступы) к чему предрассудки).

P1230607  P1230609

Но мне-то место пофотографировать всегда найдется, в этом у велосипеда преимущество.

Около 11 утра я спустилась к фьорду. Нашла в деревьях лавочку за столом, и села скушать свой «ланч-пакет». Погода хорошая, так что надо пользоваться моментом. Заодно снаяла ветрозащитные штаны и поехала дальше только в легинсах. Жизнь без штанов – прекрасна! – скажу я вам.
Главная дорога ушла в 17километровый тоннель ( я б застрелилась ехать столько по тоннелю). А моя объездная, превращаясь периодически в грунтовку, пошла опоясывать мыс вокруг. И я пошла за ней.

P1230610  P1230628

Дорога очень и очень красивая. В заливе стоят рыболовные суда. Океан синий-синий. А трава зеленая-зеленая. И только ветер, который вначале был довольно умеренным, затем превратился в такой адский мордодуй с востока, что я периодически начинала психовать. Дорога очень сильно прыгает с горки на горку. До кончика мыса я еле допилила, ожидая от него избавления от ветра, так как там дорога развернется почти на 180градусов. И действительно перед самым кончиком ветер стих, а после разворота задул в спину, и я, можно сказать, полетела, останавливаясь, только чтоб запечатлеть потрясные пейзажи.

P1230634  P1230636

А над этим фьордом сгущались тяжелые тучи. И откуда они только взялись?

Городок оказался очень протяженным, и кемпинг на дальнем конце. Уже в обед я была на месте, поставила палатку и поехала на пустом велосипеде в магазин, чтоб докупить сыру, сосисок, хлеба и традиционный скир. За это время все ж успел пойти дождь, но небольшой и коротенький.
А дальше был долгий плотный ужин и ранний сон в пасмурную погоду.

P1230644  P1230649

Завтра меня ждет еще несколько фьордов, а значит снова несколько перемен ветра на 180 градусов.

14 августа. Фаскрудсфьордур – Дъюпивогур, 115.5км, 8 чхв. Фабрика облаков.

Страницы дневника этого дня написаны у меня самым ужасным почерком, потому что писались на ощупь, почти в темноте, без чувства, толка и расстановки.

Это день о том, как делать не надо. Ну хотя…надо, но не всегда).

Но обо всём по порядку.

День начался с хорошей ясной погоды, хотя ночью я и немного подмерзла и утром было +5. Встала я в 6:45, а в 8:30 выехала.

P1230659  P1230662

Ветер был сегодня на удивление весь день крайне умеренный, кроме вечера, когда он решил отыграться за весь день) но об этом позже.

А пока я уезжаю на объезд очередного мыса. Когда я была почти на его кончике, то увидела удивительное явление – фабрику облаков. То как они рождаются в реальном времени. А рождаются они на поверхности моря, от которой поднимается белая воздушная масса, выползая всё выше и выше, и в итоге открывается от поверхности и отправляется в вольное плаванье в небеса. При объезде я и сама попала в такое новорожденное облако, хорошо что не надолго. Потому что оно такое густое, что в нем все равно, едешь ты по Исландии или по деревне Бобровка, - вид вокруг одинаковый.

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Ехалось с утра так хорошо, что на 30км я решила заехать в кафешку и попить какао с бутербродом, таким образом заставив себя немного поотдыхать.

У города, где я собиралась первоначально ночевать, на одометре было всего 47км. «Мало!» - подумала я, и решила ехать до следующего городка Берунес, пока ноги еще свежие, а ветер почти попутный.

P1230697  P1230704

Доехала. Но мне там почему-то не понравилось. «Мало!» - подумала я, «почему бы не доехать сразу до завтрашней конечной точки?». Правда это еще 40км объезда фьорда, из которых последние 20км будут точно против ветра, и вопрос только в том, насколько сильного ветра.

Погода начинала портиться, и я опасалась, что завтра из-за дождя мне придется отсиживаться, а этого не хотелось, и я поехала дальше.

Виды были очень красивые, особенно остроконечные верхушки гор. В такую погоду они очень сурово и по сказочному смотрятся.

P1230707  P1230709

И вот на объезде фьорда встретилось первое попадалово. Закончился асфалт и начался грейдер. Да, хорошо когда грейдер идет на путынной дороге. Но когда он идет на довольно загруженной трассе№1, где машины не особо притормаживают и из-под колес летят булыжники, а сам грейдер очень и очень разбит, то приятного мало. А потом началась стройка. Что-то роют. И по этому грейдеру носятся камазы с землей, которую сдувает и мне в лицо, и из под которых тоже летят камни. Веселье это продолжалось километров 8-10, но вытрясло мне всю душу, учитывая, что душа к этому времени соточку уже проехала и итак изрядно измоталась.

И тут в глубине фьорда я развернулась на 180 градусов и начался он – ветер дня!

Как проехать 15км, когда ты и 100 метров проезжаешь с трудом? И я решила что нужно просто досчитать. Досчитать до 15.

Но до 15 я досчитать все же не смогла. Смогла только до 4. Я так сильно заголодала, что дальше уже не могла держаться на велосипеде, и вытащив из рюкзак кофту и пачку печенья, уселась жадно его поглощать. Ветер конечно нервирует, но когда голодно – все ж надо кушать. В заливе стояли большие рыбацкие корабли, которые не ловят рыбку, а рядом с которыми ее разводят. Опускался вечер, и было безумно красиво. Печеньки немного «впитались» в организм, я утеплилась и поехала дальше.

Городок оказался еще и на вершине приличного взгорка, хоть он и портовый. Городок милый и красивый. А в кемпинге полно народа - трасса№1 как никак.

P1230713  P1230715

Устала я конечно безумно, даже ноги забились первый раз за поход.

Уже в сумерках ставлю палатку, набираю воды для готовки, забираюсь в палатку, и снова начинается сильный дождь. А значит я снова вовремя.

Отпиваюсь киселем и чаем, готовлю гречку. И сажусь спешно записать в дневник события дня. Так хочется спать, что даже фонарик включать лень, пишу на ощупь в темноте и отрубаюсь в глубокий сон, обещая себе клятвенно, что завтра я точно не поеду два дня за один!!

15 августа. Дъюпивогур – Стафафель, 76.44км, 5:08 чхв Снова юг.

Я проснулась в 4 утра, и поняла, что абсолютно разбита: нога болит, тело ломит, голова тяжелая, и немного температура. Выпила аспирин и снова крепко уснула. Вставать слишком рано я сегодня не собиралась – заслужила. А около 5 утра полил сильный дождь, под который спалось и вовсе чудесно. В 7 утра он закончился, и вышло солнце, которое светило так ярко, что хотелось радоваться новому дню, и я даже легко проснулась уже совсем не разбитая. Сходила на местную кухню за кипятком, попила кипяток с печеньем, съела несколько бутербродов с сыром, и под веселое солнышко начала собираться. Хотя было и понятно, что солнышко это не надолго. Вокруг ходили тучи и туманы, но куда им дальше, они пока не решили.

P1230727  P1230732

Это был очень и очень красивый день, которому хмурая погода только добавляла некоторой эпичности и суровости скалам, тонущим в туманах, с множеством гнездующихся птиц, ущельям, тёмному океану, на котором сегодня много в заливах то ли гусей, то ли лебедей, то ли и тех и других.

P1230808  P1230739

И ветер с утра был очень умеренный, что было очень кстати, так как я снова объезжаю уже порядком поднадоевшие мне фьорды, но они снова поражают меня своей непохожестью друг на друга.

Но как только дорога вышла от юго-восточных фьордов на юг, так сразу же сменились и пейзажи. Дорога поползла узкими прижимами на обсыпающихся склонах. Над головами летали птицы, а внизу бился, преобретший наконец характер, океан. Выглядело это захватывающе!

P1230752  P1230756

На одном из таких прижимов стояла метеовышка с флюгером. Он показывал северный ветер. Вот почему я его почти не чувствовала – он дул мне в спину. Хоть это и тот ветер, который несет непогоду в эту страну, сейчас он мой помощник. Всё как в жизни. Именно то, что несет в нашу жизнь плохую погоду, как нельзя лучше способствует нашему продвижению вперед.

P1230765  P1230794

К кемпингу я приехала к 15 часам. Получился нормальный спокойных ходовой день. И хоть отсюда до Хёфна всего 32км, я же дала себе обещание не ехать два дня за один – надо исполнять.

Кемпинг этот типа фермерского – посреди поля другое более ровное поле с лавочками. Я вначале даже немного промахнулась, но табличка у фермы гласила: кемпинг 800 метров назад! Пришлось возвращаться.

P1230838  P1230822

Пока что я тут вообще одна, и овечек тут немногим больше, чем постояльцев. Только к вечеру немного подтянутся люди. А место очень красивое и спокойное, с отличным видом на гору-бэтмен. И бесплатный горячий душ, который мне сейчас так нужен и которого так не хватало мне вчера после тяжелого дня.

P1230832  P1230842

Я ставлю палатку, ухожу в душ, а когда возвращаюсь – начинается дождь. И опять я вовремя, и даже с уже полным воды котелком.

И снова я в палатке готовлю обед, разговариваю с мамонтом Глашей. Еще пару таких дождливых дней, и Глаша начнет сама вылезать из кармана палатки и отвечать мне.

Неспешно завариваю чай, варю молочную кашу, с финиками и сыром это королевский обед!

После обеда, немного полежав и переждав дождик, я решила прогуляться по окрестностям и направилась на ближайшую возвышенность в поросль. Я искала ее! Чернику! И я ее конечно же нашла. За время с Миватна она успела подрасти и поспеть. Не знаю, можно было или нельзя, но я собирала ёё горсть за горстью и лопала, и никак не могла остановиться. Приехавшие новые кемперы издалека поглядывали в мою сторону, но вряд ли могли понять, зачем я тут ползаю. И ведь только соберешься уходить, как находишь место еще урожайней. В общем, наевшись вдоволь, я все же собрала волю в кулак, в другой кулак я набрала пару горстей, потом еще пару, потом еще немного… и все ж смогла уйти. А сколько еще ее там осталось! И ведь никто кроме меня ее не съест!

Вечером сварила себе еще раз ужин пюре с сыром и сосисками, и радостная тому, что ноги у меня не болят, признаки простуды прошли, стала укладываться спать.
В 9 вечера опять всё затянуло и полил дождь, убаюкивая меня своей привычной колыбельной.

16 августа. Стафафель – Хёфн, 34км, 2:11 чхв. Первый финиш.

Из этого дня у меня получилась почти дневка благодаря сдерживанию обещаний, данных накануне.

Всю ночь беспросветно лило и только к 4 утра дождь прекратился. В 5 утра я проснулась и решила, что нужно побыстрее собираться и ехать, пока у дождя передышка. Но поднять себя все равно не смогла и довалялась до 6 утра, зато собралась в рекордный час и уже в 7 утра выехала.

P1230851  P1230871

Дорога хоть и короткая, но очень красивая. Сначала она кругом объезжает широкую затопленную долину, а потом берет курс на гору-бэтмен, которую я и вчера наблюдала полдороги. Интересно, что эта гора не теряет своей формы киногероя даже при приближении к ней.

Ветер сегодня меняется с восточного до северного, то есть в основном он боковой, и это мне на руку.

P1230904  P1230909

После Бэтмена дорога начинает карабкаться в перевал, и неожиданно оказывается, что на ней есть тоннель, причем не длинный, всего 1.3км. И я решаю что надо проехать тоннелем, хотя б для разнообразия. По сравнению с черногорскими тоннелями, в нём просто рай! Всё освещенное и достаточно широкое. Ехать неприятно, но не страшно.

А на выезде я будто окончательно пересекла невидимую границу между востоком и югом. Вот оно, южное побережье: суровое, с огромным ледником Ватнаёкудль, который множеством языков спускается в долины на протяжении почти 200км и который задает суровость и непредстказуемость местной погоды на границах льда и океана. Смотрится слегка нереально. Хотя, надо сказать, вся Исландия смотрится нереально).

У Хёфну от трассы№1 уходит отвилка длинной 4км. На въезде в город стоит кемпинг, в котором уже в 10 утра я поставила палатку, и впереди еще целый день отдыха.

P1230943  P1230940

Пошла гулять первым делом до инфоцентра за вайфаем, потом в магазин, где купила текущие продукты и батарейки, а также лосося, оливье и лепешек – меня ждёт маленький пир).

После пира погода наладилась и солнышко начало так жарить, что наконец-то понадобился крем от загара))). Я перестирала вещи, зарядила аккумуляторы, повалялась, и когда солнышко немного сжалилось и стало попрохладней, то отправилась гулять снова, более вдумчиво на дальние мысы. Исходила и мысы и город вдоль и поперек. В городе есть большая спорт.школа, стадион, бассейн. На мысах много уточек на заболоченных берегах.

Хёфн в первоначальном плане был точкой моего финиша. Но так как я несколько раз план нарушила и добралась сюда на два дня раньше, то я решила проехать еще пару дней, до природного парка Скафтафель, по дороге сделав промежуточную ночевку в ледниковой лагуне – месте попсовом, но достойном того, чтоб его посмотреть.

17 августа. Хёфн – ледниковая лагуна – Скафтафель, 142.22км, 9:04чхв. Полный финиш.

Это был дикий длинный день. Но вначале ничего не предвещало его таким)…кажется, какой-то день уже начинался с таких слов).

Проснувшись в 5:50 я слегка перекусила, но позавтракать традиционно не смогла, и положив в «ланч-пакет» скир и печенье, собрала вещи и уже около 7:15 выехала из Хёфна. Утро было хорошим, довольно ясным и тёплым.

Ветер, как всегда на развороте, был боковой, а потом подул попутны, так что летелось по нему очень хорошо.

P1230981  P1230955

Не в первый на дороге встретился знак «осторожно, олени», но я ему не придавала значения. Как-то не ассоциировались у меня олени с Исландией, она же остров. А тут раз, и живой олень прям рядом с дорогой! Видать отбился от свиты деда Мороза). Очень красивый, худенький, с хвостиком, совсем не похожий на алтайских маралов, с очень раскидистыми рогами.

Дорога то и дело проезжает мимо щупальцев ледников, спускающихся с вулкана Ватнаёкудль. Некоторые подходят довольно близко к дороге, к некоторым уходят радиальные грунтовки, но радиалить по ним для меня смысла нет никакого, я в пешем треккинге пару недель назад уже пересекала ледники, и мне вполне хватило того куда более тесного знакомства, чем просто подъехать к ним на велосипеде.

P1230948  P1230970

Где-то на 47-ом км я села перекусить творожком и печеньем, получился плотный завтрак, и он оказался очень кстати так как вскоре ветер поменялся и стал встречным, и дорога снова начала изнурять. Всё-таки ехать в перевалы для меня сильно проще чем ехать на встречный ветер такой силы.

Таким он и оставался до самой ледниковой лагуны, до 82го километра.

P1230977  P1230983

Приехала я туда изрядно уставшая, и с мыслью, что хорошо, что тут у меня и запланирована ночевка. Но приехала то я около 13:00, когда здесь еще полным полно народа. А кемпинга тут нет. Так что я обречена выжидать до вечера, когда народ разъедется. А вечер в Исландии понятие относительное.

Но делать нечего. Съела в кафе сендвич с горячим шоколадом и пошла гулять доль лагуны. Вначале она впечатления не производит – слишком много людей. Но если отойти подальше, где народ заканчивается – там действительно начинает чувствоваться дух этого места, его покой. В воде плавают морские котики, которые заплывают сюда с океана, то и дело высовывая носы. Солнце играет на огромных глыбах льда. Периодически слышится уханье и новый айсберг откалывается и отправляется в плаванье по лагуне, гонимый ветром.

P1240004  P1240038

А ветер тут знатный. На ближней стороне еще терпимый, а вот когда я перешла через мост на дальнюю, то поняла что на дороге меня ждёт просто ужас. Ватнаёкудль показывал весь свой нрав.

И вот нагулявшись, я подумала. Воды тут нет пресной. Только набирать в кафешке. Ветер адов. Ждать мне еще минимум часа три-четыре. Так какая разница, стоять без кемпинга в неудоби тут, или стоять дальше по дороге? Зато я могу проехать еще немного, и сократить себе завтрашний путь.

Я набрала себе в кафешке бутылку воды до полной, на всякий пожарный если не будет речки, еще раз перекусила и в 16:00 выехала дальше.

На дороге бушевал настоящий ураган. Он был мне боковым, и ехать было откровенно страшно, так как трафик после Хёфна был довольно насыщенный, а мне приходилось ложится на бок всем весом. В порывы переднее колесо выхлёстывало, и меня сносило и мотыляло по дороге. Но водители, видя со стороны что происходит, осторожничали и объезжали меня очень аккуратно.

P1240049  P1240056

А у меня в голове на протяжении 20км была только одна мысль: «пора валить подальше от этих ледников!». Ветер вытрепал все нервы. К слову сказать, движение мотоциклистов в такую погоду тут запрещено, так как у них скорость выше, и если их мотыльнет неудачно – будет совсем плохо.
Только через 20км дорога сильней начала забирать налево, и ветер подул мне в диагональ сзади; ехать стало сильно легче. Но я знала, что ближе к Скафтафелю мне еще предстоит развернуться почти на север, и с некоторым ужасом представляла, как я поеду против такого же встречного.

Но прошло удивительное!

Ветер стал встречным еще до поворота)). Ему так захотелось.

И я конечно отмучалась против него около 10км, но когда я начала отворачивать от океана, он почти полностью пропал. Куда? Я не знаю.
Вообще всё это время я конечно подыскивала себе идеальное место для ночевки, но тут, уже на 120-ом километре я подумала «а смысл?» )))), давай проедем «два дня за один!» ))). Осталось «всего-то» около 20км. И конечно это было серьезное «всего-то», но я поняла, что сил доехать до кемпинга у меня вполне хватит, и мысль «а почему-бы нет» у меня возникла, а вот мысль «а нафига?» так и не успела прийти).

На мою решимость ветер ответил своим «да» и задул мне в спину, хоть и слабый. И я поехала дальше.

Легко это конечно не было, так как 142км – это не за хлебом скатать, еще и с рюкзаком, но ноги крутили на удивление хорошо, как будто они только вышли на свою пиковую форму.

P1240054  P1240058

А вечер стоял чудесный. Вулкан по-прежнему протискивал щупальца своих ледников из каждого ущелья, но теперь они подкрашивались мягким закатным солнцем.

В 8 вечера я приехала в Скафтафель довольная и совершенно опустошенная. В кемпинге дул ветер с гор и очень сильно холодало. Я быстро поставила палатку, набрала воды, заварила побольше чаю и сварила гречки в томатной фасолью, слопала 4 сосиски, сыру, бутербродов, печенья…в общем почти всю еду, которая у меня была с собой. В 22 часа помыла котелок и срубилась спать. Осознание что всю закончилось еще так и не пришло.

Проснулась я в 12 ночи от того что выспалась!)

Видать пища «впиталась» и организм наконец-то сбросил накопившуюся эмоциональную и физическую нагрузку. Я вышла из палатки, а там звездное небо!!! Вот так прибавилась за 3 недели, что ночи наконец-то стали звездными.
Я долго рассматривала млечный путь и искала созвездия, а потом налила себе из термоса горячего чаю, и с фонариком села писать дневник.

Завтра я еще побуду здесь, погуляю красивую радиалку. А послезавтра будет видно. Скорее всего отправлюсь назад в Рейкьявик.
Моя велочасть закончилась на круглой цифре в 1000км. Можно скручивать педали!


18 августа. Скафтафель. Дневка. Радиальный выход к пику Кристинартидар.

Утром при разогреве чая выяснилось, что закончился газ. Всё вовремя. Только вот взять его тут неоткуда. Да и ладно, перетерплю. Залила в термос просто тёплый.

Хоть сегодня и выходной, проснулась я в 7 утра, а уже в 8 вышла на тропу радиалить.

Сначала на водопады. Они очень красивые. Народу утром почти никого, и я успеваю спокойно поснимать, а потом отправляюсь вверх по тропе в длинный путь к пику Кристинартидар…. короче Кристинка, так проще).

P1240060  P1240066

Тропа долго и плавно идёт зелеными холмами. Движение моё сильно замедляют заросли черники. Она просто не даёт идти :). Но я же в отпуске) могу себе позволить не торопиться.

С тропы постепенно открываются очень красивые виды на ледники, долину реки, каньоны. На предвершинный перевал ведет затяжной участок сыпухи, и пейзажи становятся всё суровей, учитывая, что иду я тут одна. И чем ближе я к верху, тем более шквалистым становится ветер.

P1240114  P1240117

С перевала на самый пик я не иду. Вершина скально-обсыпная. Виды оттуда абсолютно такие же как с перевала, а в этот ветер и с моими довольно скользкими ботами там откровенно опасно.

P1240119  P1240120

А с перевала открываются потрясающие виды на сам ледник Скафтафель, величественный и мощный, каким невозможно налюбоваться.
Тропа с перевала по скале аккуратно спускается на каменистые полки и по ним режет склон, держать постоянно под ледником. Точнее это я очень аккуратно спускаюсь по скале на нижние полки, держась за всё что можно). Зато с отличным видом на ледник)

P1240130  P1240141

Погода на обратном пути портится, и даже начинает накрапывать дождь. И все тот же дикий ветер, но и тут он мне попутный. Мне кажется, под конец похода исландская погода всё ж взяла меня в союзники.

P1240142  P1240150

Навстречу мне идёт довольно большой поток людей, и я им немного сочувствую. По этой стороне и подниматься сложнее, и самую лучшую погоду они уже пропустили.

P1240181  P1240189

Придя в лагерь, я делаю себе подарок, и обедаю в бистро (ибо газа нет а кушать хочется)) ), потом иду в душ, который тут увы платный (всего 5 минут, а ак все же приятно!), и залезаю в палатку, за которой опять начинается дождь. А я могу спокойно вздремнуть.
Вечер прошел в мелких заботах о себе и мыслях о доме.

19 августа. Переезд Скафтафель – Рейкьявик. All you need is love.

Ночью ветер сильно трепал палатку и я долго не могла крепко уснуть. И около 2 часов ночи, окончательно проснувшись, вылезла из палатки. Было чистое звездное небо, поперек которого из края в край горел широкий белый всполох, словно огромный белый мост. Это еще не северное сияние, но это его первые предвестники. Оба медвежьих ковша были на месте. Вид ночного неба меня умиротворил, и вернувшись в палатку я быстро уснула.

А утром чувствовала себя так тепло, хорошо и расслаблено, что никак не хотела просыпаться и провалялась до 9 утра.
Сегодня очень ясный день и солнце жарит совсем не по-детски. Я попила воды с печеньками и сыром, собрала вещи и ушла к инфо-центру ждать автобус, который вскоре и пришел раньше срока.

Водитель обрадовался, что я только одна с велико, и что я сняла педали и колесо, и что велик вообще влез, так как ехала большая группа и места было довольно мало.

Why you are so smiling? – спросил меня он. И я ответила: потому что я финишировала свою 1000км, потому что отличная погода, и просто потому что в этот самый момент я беспричинно счастлива.

Водитель тоже стал счастлив) и сделал мне беспричинно small discount взяв только половину стоимости провоза велосипеда. А это не мало! И это было очень хорошо.

Автобус был крайне душный, но вскоре нас пересадили в другой. Вещи правда тоже пришлось перегружать, но зато на нём был внешний велобагажник! Второй водитель помог мне закрепить на нём велик на резинки перекрестил его! ))) чему я слегка напряглась). Но сидел велик хорошо.

Он спросил меня, почему я еду на автобусе с велосипедом, а не на велосипеде? Мне стало тяжело? И я снова улыбаясь, сказала, что я уже финишировала с пробегом 1000км, и мне этого достаточно, а дальше дорога скучная и много машин. На что водитель воскликнул: You are lazy! )) Но потом добавил, что 1000км это тоже неплохо). В общем отчасти он прав и в том и в другом)

Ехали мы как-то мучительно долго. Остановки выматывали и уже очень хотелось домой. Зато по пути от девушки-экспедитора я услышала, что сегодня в Рейкьявике ночь музеев, и это главный фестиваль лета, на которые съезжаются местные жители со всей страны и которая заканчивается большим концертом у порта.

P1240236  P1220599

Вот это да! – подумала я. Правда на музеи меня сегодня не тянуло. Но концерт и салют!

В кемпинге я заработала большую скидку, так как 3 ночи и так как велосипедистам скидка, и потому что дату на бирке рюкзака из камеры хранения никто не проверил, а я оставляла его на меньшее кол-во дней). Все как по маслу!

Я вытащила из хранимого рюкзака припрятанные мюсли, залила купленным в дороге молоком, и слопала сразу 2 тарелки – моя еда! Потом раздобыла пару полупустых газовых баллонов – будет на чем варить еду, потом напилась вдоволь чаю, и только около 21:30 выдвинулась гулять в поисках праздника.

Набережная разгоралась закатом. И чем ближе я подходила к концертному залу Харпа, тем громче становилась музыка. Концерт шел недалеко на холме, качественный, с отличным звуком и вещанием на ТВ. Народу, как и писал интернет, было под 100тыс. Я никогда не видела еще такого количества людей и никогда не была среди них. Но все было крайне мирно. Фан-зона танцевала, часть народа сидела на зеленых холмах, часть стояла на дорожках, улицы и площади вокруг были тоже наводнены людьми. И я наивно думала что в основном тут туристы, пока вся эта толпа не начала подпевать на исландском знакомую песню своего любимого артиста. Потрясающие ощущения!

А потом около 23:30 случился салют, большой и красивый.

Да, Рейкьявик встречал меня феерично, с музыкой и салютом, и я тоже танцевала и тоже пела…

А потом эта гигантская толпа начала аккуратно рассасываться в улочки и на набережную, продолжая подпевать и заряженная настроением летнего праздника.

P1240210  P1240221

И отчасти это напомнило мне встречу Нового года в Ялте. Тоже набережная, тоже концерт с феерверком, примерно та же температура… не хватало только новогодней ёлки и повода загадывать желание.

А я шла по набережной и вдруг почувствовала, насколько сильно я пропиталась за последний месяц этой страной, ее запахом сероводорода от горячей воды, ураганными ветрами, брызгами волн, криками гусей и чаек, долгими закатами и рассветами… «All you need is love» пела музыкальная заставка вслед покидающим площадь. И я была с этим совершенно согласна. Эта страна меня приручила, а значит теперь за меня в ответе.

В пристань бил ласковый ночной прибой, о чем-то перемигивались на дальних мысах маяки, над головой горел ковш Большой Медведицы, в палатке меня ждала мамонт Глаша, термос горячего чая с шоколадными печеньками и добрые исландские сны.
Так могла бы заканчиваться хорошая книга. Но так заканчивалась моя долгая исландская эпопея…

P1240256  P1240243

20-21 августа. Рейкьявик и Дюссельдорф.

А дальше были еще два дня прогулок и исландского мороженного, и долгая дорога домой. В Дюссельдорфе меня ждала 10 часовая пересадка, в которую я отправилась гулять по городу. Но после легкого светлого и прохладного Рейкьявика, Дюссельдорф меня задавил своей тяжеловесной европейской архитектурой, своей грязью и ремонтами, своей духотой и чем-то чужим и удручающим.

P1240257  P1240266

И только когда я нашла на его улицах единственное здание, которое могло бы стоять и в Рейкьявике тоже, я села рядом с ним на лавочку и меня отпустило. И даже фигура девушки с двумя рыбинами вполне сошла бы да молодую дочь викинга. А потом быстро вернулась в аэропорт, стараясь не растерять то доброе и тёплое чувство моей северной страны, которая так непросто мне далась, и которую теперь никаким Дюссельдорфом из меня уже не вытеснить…

P1240272  P1240274

PS:

Выражаю благодарность Александру Фефелову и Николаю Рязанскому (Федерация спортивного туризма), за поддержку при оформлении визы.

 

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